GOC Holidaymaker

Gingee Fort near Pondicherry

Tamil Nadu is well known for its temples, but less so for its forts. Gingee, or Singi, makes up for the lack elsewhere in its sheer size and scale. Over the ages it has seen many occupiers, or occupants:

"In the beginning, Gingee was the place of the Jains but later due to rule of Pallava, Chola kings, Pandya, Hoysalas, Vijayanagara kings. Muhammadans, Mughals and the indifferent attitude of foreigners, the Gingee fort, which was surrounded by the granite walls, the mandapas, the temples inside the fort, was gradually destroyed. The Britishers did not take any steps to renovate the fort. Today Gingee fort is placed as a memorial in the pages of history and also for the sake of its admirers." About Gingee

For the tourist it is as much of a challenge as the military attack! The town of Gingee itself, about 3Km from the fort is unremarkable, and does not have a hotel as such, so most visitors undertake the 2 - 3 hour drive from Pondi or the longer trip from Chennai. This can mean that you arrive during the heat of the day, and then need to climb the steep steps to the most interesting part of the forts. One of the most amazing things about the site is that it is usually deserted, apart from a few locals picnicking or meeting friends in the shade of the ruins at the top. There is nowhere to buy water at some of the entries, so take plenty with you. You will need it!

There are three large, granite hills covered with large boulders, capped with the ruins of the fort. The perimeter is 3 miles of double granite walls. A mosque and museum is at the foot of the largest hill, where there are the remains of the larger palaces and the magnificent granary.  

The trek up the uneven steps to the top of the hills is well worth it for the spectacular view across the plains and the panorama of the forts themselves. The architecture of the  temples and living quarters at the top are representative of many periods of architecture and the museum has examples of sculptures from the very early days of the site's occupation.

Like so many of the sights of India, Gingee surpasses expectation. A ruined fort, but what a fort. A massive site which can hardly be seen in a single day, encompassing so many periods of history and requiring persistance and a great deal of energy to experience, but so worthwhile.

Again, take plenty of water!

Samode Haveli: ideal place for a stay in Jaipur

The havelis of Rajasthan are large mansions where the extended family of the owner lived. Many were built by royalty, but most were and are owned by rich merchants who became wealthy through trade. The architecture is essentially Moghul and the buildings are arranged around courtyards, typically one  for men and an inner courtyard for women. The paintings on the walls of the havelis in Mandawar and in hte Shekawatty regons of Rajasthan are rightly famous and worth a visit. The few remaining havelis in Jaipur have long lost their pictures, but the Samode Haveli is a wonderful example of a royal mansion.

Situated very close to the Pink City there is no better place to explore that sights and bazaars of Jaipur, although it is best to take a car or rickshaw and retain the driver, as the area is confusing and the immediate surroundings lack charm. The hotel itself boasts an elephant ramp, built in the 1940's for a wedding, and which leads to the first courtyard. Most of the rooms are arranged round the courtyards and windows face inwards, away from the city and the sun.

Meals can be taken in the courtyard outside the restaurant, although this is worth braving even in hot weather. When we were there the weather was very hot, 45 degrees, and the large durbar hall was unaffected by the air-conditioning! However, it is sumptuously painted and the windows look over the garden, a green oasis in dusty Jaipur. The food, as in all Samode hotels, is excellent and reasonably priced. The open lounge is an excellent place to relax with afternoon tea, and there are thoughtfully-provided digests of international news available along with a free internet connection.The pool is large, well-serviced and very clean with ample loungers and shady nooks.

The Nehru Snake-Boat Race

"Onam falls, on the 12th day of the waxing moon in the Hindu month of Bhadon (around August September)" . There is a build-up and a period of celebration around the date. Like Easter, the festival moves within the calendar. Sometimes it coincides with the Nehru Boat Race in Alleppy, where the 100+ oarsmen of the snake boats compete on a backwater course.
It is possible to see the race from some waterside hotels, and others provide boats for spectators. This is probably preferable to the anarchy of the stands, which are bursting with enthusiastic spectators and similar to a football crowd!
Whilst cruising on the backwaters it is often possible to see these enormous dug-out boats by the side of the water, and to stop and be shown their unusual construction by a villager. Competition is fierce between the villages, and there are women crews as well as men.
This year the race is on 25th August and hopefully it will stop raining for the event.
The family occasion is still very important, and similar to Christmas in the way that food and family gatherings form the centre of the holiday.
Although much of Kerala is "asleep" there are processions in some of the larger towns.
http://www.onamfestival.org/ gives information on the festival, recipes and traditions.

Qutub Minar, awesome tourist sight in Delhi

The traffic and general chaos of Delhi makes it a difficult tourist experience, but the sights of the city are well worth the problems of getting about, problems that the new metro may alleviate. (More later). The city itself lacks any coherent charm, which makes the grandeur of its monuments all the more amazing, and, in my opinion, the Qutb Minar is the most interesting of the lot, being unique in India.

Its tower is at 72.5 meters (237.8 ft) the world's tallest brick minaret. The building was started in 1193 India's first Muslim ruler, Qutb-ud-din Aibak, completed by Al-ud-dim in the 13th Century, and has been added to,  damaged by earthquakes and repaired many times since then. From the distance it looks like a brick tower, but as you get closer the scale and complexity of the design become clearer and the beauty of it's surroundings gradually unfold. Quotations from the Koran are built in to the brick all around it and in 1838, Emily Eden in "Up the Country" remarked on her wonder that it was so little known about. .."I expected the Kootub would have been rather inferior the the Monument.." Although a major tourist destination today, it is still little known about in the West. The remains of Hindu and Jain temples, which were demolished when the tower was built,can be clearly seen around the tower, demonstrating the supremacy of the Muslim religion at that time.

Throughout the years many travellers have described the tower and a climb to the top of its several stories, which is now not possible because of safety fears. In the 1830s, Major Archer, in his "Tours in Upper India" described a visit to the tower and the Britsh flag flying from a pavillion at the top, and another of the treasures of its surroundings.

"An iron pillar stands in a sort of courtyard, having the remains of cloisters on the four sides. 
Its history is veiled in darkest night. There is a description which nobody can decifer; not is there any account, historical or traditional, excelt we may refer to the latter class, a prevalent idea of all people, that the pillar is the most sacred spot in the old city. which spot was also its centre. It is also said that as long as the pillar stood, so long would Hindoostan flourish." The pillar is indeed a curiosity, being of iron so pure that it does not rust.

It is dwarfed by the tower, but has its own presence. Close by are the unfinished foundations of another tower,the Alai Minar, begun in the early 1300s by Alauddin Khilji, designed to be taller that the Qutb Minar, but being abandoned after his death at a height of 24 metres. The massive rubble core suggests that it would have been an awesome monument.

The monsoon arrives

The South West monsoon arrived a little late in Kerala, but has made up for it since with heavy rain. As well as replenishing water supplies, in the South, the monsoon season is the time when people return home for a holiday and to recharge their energy ready for the next year.

Traditionally, the monsoon is the best time for Ayurvedic treatment to boost the immune system, and many centres are busy at this time of the year. The welcome rain and relief from the heat make it an ideal time for a holiday to relax and recouperate, whether you take treatment or not. Travel can be difficult when the rain is at its peak and roads and railway lines in the mountains can get washed away, as happened  to the train up to Ooty last year.

During August it does not rain all day and the climate is delightful, especially on the coast where there is a good chance of dry, fine weather. Many festivals take place at this time, including the famous snake boat race on the backwaters near Alleppey. There are bargains to be had in hotels, and travelling in the monsoon is appreciated by the people of India as being one of the "must do" experiences  as the clouds and rain sweep in and bring relief from the heat of the dry season. 

The Nilgiri Steam Railway

The BBC have come up with another series on India which is a gentle reflection on the lives of the people concerned, this time three programmes on the hill railways which were used to transport people and goods to the hill stations ofthe Raj. Last night's was about the Nilgiri railway which pootles its way up  to Ooty, one of the richest and most select of the hill stations.
The deisel trains aren't powerful enough to tackle the steep inclines on some of the route so steam trains are still used, some 100 years old and the railway has been named by Unesco as a World Heritage location.
Rock falls, rain damage and the odd wandering elephant make the efficient running of the railway a daily challenge. During the tourist seaspn tickets are nearly impossible to buy and it is the highlight of many people's visit to Ooty.

Last November landslides took out several stretches of the railway, and it is difficult to find any information on the current state of the track. This is nothing new:

"23rd October 1865:
        Worst Storm on record occurred around ooty and Coonoor. Coonoor Railway station was covered with water up to five feet deep. In Ooty Lake rose up to top of willow bound and threatened to breach it."

http://nilgiris.nic.in/DISASTER_MANAGMENT.htm

The roads too suffer from regular landslides, but it is usally possible to get to the resort from one side or the other. Ootly remains one of the favourite resorts in the Nilgiris and last night's film gives you a taste of why. A good climate, wonderful location and gentle people with the simple aim of doing their jobs as well as they can and a pride in what they do. Watch it again on 27th February, BBC 4, or on i-player.

This  short You-Tube video is a good taster.

Video