Kerala Vacations

Your Driver

Some of our customers are uneasy about having their very own driver to take them around all the time. It could be very difficult. Generally, we are no longer used to having people to wait on us other than in restaurants and shops and the relationship with someone who is in charge, but who might expect to be told what to do, could be fraught with discomfort.

We have also been told horror stories about drivers who drink, who turn up late, who bore passengers with constant chatter, boss them around and generally don’t allow them to do what they want to do. Some of this can come from a genuine desire to make sure that their customers see all there is to see and pride in what they have to show foreigners, but this does not make what can feel like bullying any easier to cope with in a strange country with unfamiliar customs.

Our drivers have been with us a long time. They are part of the company, not hired on contract, and are experienced and professional. The driver is a key part of the trip; if he is unsatisfactory, so is the holiday.

When we first went to Kerala I was worried about how to cope with having a driver. (This probably cuts two ways!) The worst part was knowing that I was sleeping in a luxurious hotel room whilst Narayan was sleeping who knows where- I suspected the hotel car park. This is the way it works.

Most hotels have driver facilities with hot food, beds, washing and toilet facilities, and the drivers are paid an amount daily to cover this. Mostly they choose not to spend their allowance, but to sleep in their cars “for security”. The back seats fold down to make a comfortable bed, and they have a DVD for entertainment. Once the suitcases have been delivered they do not enter the hotel. If you do not want the driver, you are at liberty to give him a rest. You just need to be clear when you want him to be ready to meet you the next time.

The job of the driver is to look after you, and they are very good at it.

Most people want to tip their driver, and it is expected, although we give a bonus according to the questionnaire you are asked to fill in at the end of the holiday. The usual rate is about 150 rupees a day. Matthew was understandably aggrieved when he ferried seven middle-aged women who argued all the time around for ten days, hefting their suitcases onto the roof-rack at each stop, making numerous toilet stops, some in obscure places and generally running around after them all day. For this he was given a tip of 70p. On the other hand just as much trouble was caused by a well-meaning couple who gave him £50.00!

The Teapot Cafe, Fort Kochi

Every tourist who spends any time in Fort Kochi will know the Teapot café. Once it was about the only place where you could find decent toast and coffee, and now, when coffee shops and cafes are opening all along the streets near the waterside it stands out as the most self-assured and interesting place to go for a snack or a full meal.

In spite of a desire to experience everything Indian, there comes a time when the stomach craves the familiar, and somehow this is worse at breakfast. The teapot serves crisp toast- not the soggy option available elsewhere- fruit, cereals and pancakes in generous portions. There are, of course, many varieties of tea and real coffee.

When the craving for bland has worn off, the meals are well cooked and very good value, chicken curries being tender and rich and the fish as fresh as one would expect in the location. There is an air of ad-hoc about the place, with packing-case tables, assorted chairs and occasional rickettyness. Once when the electricity failed and we were peering at our meal by the light of a single candle, we regretted fish with bones, but it was such delicious fish and anyway, the electricity does often go off at night!

On every visit, the Teapot has spread to regions in the building which were hidden before, something in the manner of a tardis, but this has not affected the charm of the place or the quality of the food. Go there!

The houseboat is afloat!

The houseboat has taken to the waters. Our first customers after the refit seem to have had a good time- their email is below.

 

Hi Anil,

I would like to drop in a two liner about the experience which we had in the last few days.

Hats off to your team (Driver - Narayanan & the crew members in the house boat). They were so courteous, friendly & chivalrous. Overall the experience which we had was awesome however I would like to highlight few finest things.

Sienna village - Excellent food

Carmelia Heaven - Very adventurous

Kayaloram lake resort - Traditionally superb

House Boat - Awesome crew

I would also highly recommend my friends to experience the same which we had. All the best & May god bless you to achieve new heights.

 

Thanks & Regards

Murali Krishnan & Asha

 

We are pleased by this. All the hard work has paid off, and we are looking forward to a successful season.

Raintree Lodge, Fort Kochi

Raintree Lodge ( 1/614 Peter Celli Street) in Fort Kochi often comes top in hotel polls of the area, and it is not difficult to see why. It is small, prices are modest and it is very good value. The owners, Edgar and Tania, run several ventures around Cochin, the latest being the Old Harbour, a luxury hotel on the waterside. They have put  the same values into Raintree Lodge. The furnishings would not be out of place in a smart boutique hotel, and it is very, very clean. There is no restaurant, meals are taken at the Teapot a few yards away down the street- see separate review. The staff are friendly and accommodating and will lend umbrellas, stop you in the street if they see you to offer help, advice or just for a chat. The roof garden is a cool place to relax and look at the old streets of the city below.

Down the road is a new annexe which offers two double bedrooms-  en-suite, a sitting room and a kitchen for those who prefer to self-cater. In April 2008 it was suffering a few teething troubles with the air conditioning, and we had a chilly night, but knowing the meticulous attention to detail which is put into the other venues, I suspect that by now it will match the Raintree in its comfort and level of amenity.

Enjoying the Food!

Most people who visit Kerala come back raving about the food. It is rich, usually contains a lot of ghee and coconut milk, and often coconut oil is used for frying. Most food is cooked quickly, fried, stir-fried or grilled, as ovens are unusual in traditional kitchens. It is almost always delicious, the fish and sea food always fresh and what is available that day. Microwaves are unheard of. I have difficulty saying what I like the best, but it must be the Keralan paratha. This is a round of rich, light, flakey bread. Try not to think of the amount of ghee which goes into its manufacture as you eat! In Hindu societies meat is reserved for the warrior classes, most people being vegetarians. Restaurants are divided into veg and non-veg, or both veg and non-veg. Muslims will not eat pork, Hindus will not eat beef, Jains are strictly vegan. Kerala, having a good mix of religions is practical about food. The Christians butcher the beef and pork, so it is available everywhere, as is chicken, the most ubiquitous meat.

 

It is spicey, but most hotels go easy on the spice when they are catering for Western tourists, as Keralan food is fiery. You can usually ask for the cook to reduce the heat if you order a la carte. We are often asked about food safety, and it is wise to take precautions. In good hotels the fruit and vegetables are usually washed well in purified water, and are perfectly safe. Sometimes there is a slight tang of disinfectant, which is reassuring! Ice cream is fine if it is mass-produced, but make sure you know its origin. Eating on the road is OK if the food is cooked freshly, and some of the smaller food stalls produce wonderful meals for a few pence. Don't accept ice in drinks unless you are sure of the place which is serving it, and always wash fruit you buy before peeling it- washing alone is not enough, nor is just peeling. Some hotel buffets sit around for a while and are not heated adequately. If in doubt, eat a la carte- it will not cost you much more. It is a given that people who go to India suffer from upset tummies. Over the last two and a half years and many visits we have suffered one 24-hour upset and one mild problem on arrival home. Very few of our clients report that they have experienced problems caused by anything other than unfamiliar food and the recklessness of curry three times a day!

Of course, NEVER drink or clean your teeth in anything other than purified water, which is available everywhere and, and a certain amount provided free by hotels. Some hotels will tell you that it is safe to drink their water, but don’t. It arrives in tankers, and the assumption is that it comes from a water treatment plant. It doesn’t. It comes from a waterfall in the mountains, and is probably reasonably safe where it starts, other than the fact that animals have been paddling around in it upstream, but there are so many bugs and parasites which thrive in the heat that it is risky. When travelling stick to bottles and watch to see that they are opened in front of you. Cleaning your teeth in beer is not an option of choice, but it is a safe option.

Kerala for Christmas

The busiest time of the year in Kerala is Christmas and the New Year. The hotels put on special events and who wouldn't want some serious sun in the winter! In Goa they put tents on the beach for spare capacity. Kerala hasn't got to that stage yet, but it is almost impossible to find a decent room after the end of October.

This year may be different. The government of Kerala has worked very hard on the tourist infrastructure, but the airlines have been reluctant or unable to add direct routes to Kerala. This has kept the cost of travel high, especially at peak times. Fares are already high for the three weeks around Christmas.

We think that it is worth it to spend Christmas in Kerala, but if you want to go, book soon!

Munnar

Munnar is the centre of the old British tea plantations in Kerala. Its colonial days are still visible in some of the remaining buildings, but today it is a busy tourist centre with an explosion of hotels and mountain resorts. The climate is attractive when the coast is hot. It can freeze in winter, and is significantly cooler during the hot season.
The surroundings are truly spectacular. Driving over the high Lockhart gap from the South and seeing all of the hills landscaped and sculptured by tea plants and teak trees is unforgettable.
The town itself is not particularly attractive and the new hotels sometimes detract from the view, but there is a bustling market where tailors can make you made-to-measure garments in a few hours and numerous small businesses thrive.
It is easy to hire an auto-rickshaw or car to take a trip out of town, to the Tata tea factory for a guided tour of the tea-making process, to the beautiful Bison Valley which is still covered in Virgin rain forest or to the church and its cemetary which is looked after by a single guardian who will show you the important graves of the English and Scottish tea planters who died here. Top Station, on the border with Tamil Nadu is a must, and the road takes you through the Indo-Swiss dairy project. There is a Swiss Chalet nestling in the hills and herds of polished and extremely stately-looking cows.
The High Ranges Club still functions as a club and although it is possible to book rooms priority is given to members of various organisations and the armed forces. If you can get in to see the clubhouse it is a reminder of times past. The bar and billilard room have polished floors and on the wall are the hats of retired planters and the heads of some formidable animals. The sports facilities include a nine-hole golf course which is immaculately tended.
In Munnar itself the Tourist Centre organise treks through the tea plantations, some of which include an overnight camp, and there are other excursions by bus.
Just walking through the tea is a wonderful way to spend a few hours in the morning or evening, and there are many paths which take you through the plantations towards the mountains.
More at our website

Customer Reviews

We always try to follow up on returning clients to make sure that everything went smoothly and that we are able to improve on the service we give. Most clients say "We had a fantastic time, but...."
Sometimes the but is about a problem which we could have fixed had the client told us about it at the time, sometimes clients have ideas and suggestions which we can take on board, and sometimes the complaint is for something over which we have no control. India is not like Europe, and sometimes people are not prepared for the differences in culture, environment and attitude. There is a fantasy India and a real one, which can be a bit of a shock! We cannot do anything about airlines, although we have been blamed for the late arrival of aircraft, the road conditions and on one occasion the fact that one dish at dinner was cold. I am sorry that it spoiled the client's holiday, as this was the only "but" she had!

It is wonderful to get emails like the one below, which we have permission to quote.

"I want to thank you for organizing us a very memorable and pleasure-filled trip. All the arrangements were fantastic and everything went off very smoothly.
Our family really enjoyed the trip in every way. I would like to specifically thank the driver, Mathew. He is fantastic - very easy going and immensely professional, courteous and a pleasure to be with for 7 days.
Please do not hesitate to use my name as reference for any clients
from US.
Thanks
Ramaa"

Onam

"Onam falls, on the 12th day of the waxing moon in the Hindu month of Bhadon (around August September)" . This year the mai onam festival is on 10th September, but there is a build-up and a period of celebration around the date. Like Easter, the festival moves within the calendar. Sometimes it coincides with the Nehru Boat Race in Alleppy, where the 100+ oarsmen of the snake boats compete on a backwater course.
It is possible to see the race from some waterside hotels, and others provide boats for spectators. This is probably preferable to the anarchy of the stands, which are bursting with enthusiastic spectators and similar to a football crowd!
This year Onam is later than usual, and the harvests in Kerala were very poor because of early rain and the inability of machines to get onto the fields. This has led to hardship amongst much of the farming population.
The family occasion is still very important, and similar to Christmas in the way that food and family gatherings form the centre of the holiday.
Although much of Kerala is "asleep" there are processions in some of the larger towns.
http://www.onamfestival.org/ gives information on the festival, recipes and traditions.

Floods in Bihar

Although we tend to think of India as a country, it is a continent. The tragic floods currently affecting Bihar in the North are happening in India, but they are happening over 2,000 kilometers from Cochin. This is almost the same distance as from London to Athens. Srinagar, in the far North is nearly 3,500 Kilometers.
There are many states in India, each one with its own government and behaving more like a country than a simple region of a larger entity. Here in England we hear the news from India, and it is easy to assume that it affects all of India and not think of it as being the same as reading the news from Spain in relation to ourselves, or the news from Germany in relation to Scotland.
Distance means something different in India, and it is more realistic to think of distance as the time it takes to get from A to B. Delhi, just over half way to the North of India, is nearly 5 hours away in flight time. The drive from Wayanad to Trivandrum, which is largely on fairly good roads takes longer than this.
When looking to plan a journey, it is best to find out how long each stage takes rather than look at distance.